
“Somewhere warm, please”
On the last day of our Alaskan cruise, we put a deposit down for Uncruise’s “Continuing Adventure” program, where paying a certain amount while we were still on the ship allowed us a substantial discount on our next booking. The program gave us until the end of 2025 to sign up for that next cruise, to be taken no later than the end of 2026. Well, things being things, and personal tribulations consuming much of 2025, we found ourselves at Thanksgiving without even having thought of booking our cruise.
With the Pacific Northwest already turning to cold days and colder nights, the one requirement was, this time, we wanted to go somewhere warm and sunny. Uncruise had several itineraries that fit the bill; the Galapagos, Hawaii, and a couple different cruises in Baja California. One seemed to jump out more than the rest - a 7-day cruise around the Sea of Cortez, involving many isolated locations for daily activities, whale watching, and sea lions. We decided on dates the first week of February, even though it was likely still a little too early for any major whale sighting, to sail out of La Paz.
A couple of emails back-and-forth between Margaret and one of Uncruise’s ultra-helpful agents, and we had the cruise booked, thinking we would hammer out additional details, like flights and hotels, later. Again, things being things, we found ourselves a couple weeks into January, with no further details finalized, and again emailed our ultra-helpful agent to see if we could still add on their package deal for a hotel.
“No problem, we’ll book you for Friday night at the same resort in Cabo San Lucas where we have our hospitality suite, the bus will leave from there Saturday afternoon to take you to the boat.”
Perfect. Fewer decisions for us. The resort cost was more than we’d ever spent on a hotel, but it was “all inclusive”, so we wouldn’t have to pay for meals, so it felt like a reasonable solution. It also had a “show” advertised for the night we were there (every Friday, actually), meaning a bit of fun before the cruise. Okay!
The next several weeks were spent making sure we had suitable clothes to take - lots of UPF shirts and pants, swim suits, shoes for hiking and water activities (no “alaskan sneakers” this time) and hats - as well grabbing our passports from the safe deposit box, and working late hours to prep for our time out-of-the-office.
“Hon, have you seen my swim trunks?”
The day for packing came. Carl was overwhelmed. Instead of fitting everything into the collapsable duffle we used for our Alaskan trip, it only carried Carl’s clothes. Margaret brought out a smaller duffle for hers. Eventually everything was packed and ready for our 7:00am departure, and Sam loaded us up at an ungodly 5:00am hour to get us to the airport in time.
Thankfully, Alaska Airlines offers a direct flight from Portland to Cabo, making the entire flight about 4 hours, though we lose an hour because of timezones, so we arrive shortly after noon, plus about 30 minutes in customs.
The International terminal at Cabo San Lucas is a cacophony of barkers and contractors jockeying for their opportunity to transport you to where you need to go. Fortunately, Uncruise provided instructions to find their shuttle, which takes us directly to the GR Solaris Lighthouse resort.
The Solaris Frighthouse
The shuttle driver told us that in the last year, the resort had been sold, and changed focus to timeshares rather than hotel stays. This probably would’ve been good to know before booking our stay, because it proved to be the one low point in an otherwise fantastic vacation. While the room itself was fine, most of the food options in the resort were available only to “members” (ie: timeshare owners). Those of us only staying a night or so were relegated mainly to buffets. And the food at the buffets was… not great; runny eggs, overcooked and impossibly tough meats, rubbery sea food, fruit past it’s prime. The Friday night “show” was a fun romp through traditional Mexican music and culture, but again, the food was barely serviceable, with the one saving grace being some relatively tasty mini cinnamon churros; it’s hard to mess up fried dough. The resort had no fewer than 6 pools, including a swim-up bar (drinks, fortunately, were included in the cost), but seemingly no other true amenities. People we met had said they were staying for 2 weeks or more, and honestly we weren’t sure what they would do for that long. We spent about 90 minutes walking on the beach, and it was all we could do to try to fill up just the 24 hours we spent at the resort.
The hospitality suite opened at 9:00am the next morning, to collect our bags (which would be delivered to the boat before us). We checked in, and inquired about things to do in town, since the resort really wasn’t our scene. The agents told us a 30 minute walk would get us to the town square, where there are many galleries and shops, and a small farmer’s market. Since the bus for La Paz wouldn’t leave until 3:30pm, we opt to make the walk and see what we can see.
San José del Cabo
The town square proved to be far more interesting than we thought, even though it’s still decked out in Christmas decorations. Featured near the center is an old church, Mision San José del Cabo, with a polo-shirt-and-jeans-clad statue of Saint Carlos Acutis, the first “Millenial Saint”. We also visit several shops, which showcase some beautiful Mexican artisans. We’re also on the hunt for sunscreen, as well as some Airborne, just as a precautionary measure since we’d both been so intensely at work the last week before. We visit several phamacia (which we discover can mean a shop for just about anything, not just medicinals), and while the sunscreen was an easy find, the Airborne not so much. None of the pharmacists had heard of it, despite several attempts with Google Translate and much odd miming. The best we could find was [at least what we think was] Vitamin C tablets. Then it’s back to the resort to sit around one of the pools sipping down some cervezas, and waiting for the bus.
Popping back into the hospitality suite, we meet several of our fellow future travellers, and munch on some snacks. We also meet Daniel, a jovial man from Baja, who is one of the Expedition Guides on the cruise. There’s also, surprisingly, a film crew from Amazon Prime’s Porthole Cruise Magazine. They will be shooting an episode of the show during our cruise; so not only will we have one of the best vacation videos ever, but we’ll get a bit of a behind-the-scenes look at how these episodes are made. As we sit, and more passengers make their way to the hospitality suite, we take a quick count. Including the film crew and us, there look to be around 30 guests. Happily, just a few more than our Alaskan cruise.
On to La Paz
The time comes to board the bus for the 2 ½ hour ride to La Paz, and we’re off. The restroom on the bus is apparently broken (seemingly a pervasive problem in Baja), so we make a pitstop at a friendly taco stand halfway up, which also provides a welcome opportunity to stretch our legs. Along the way, we spot several spouts of whales swimming along the coast, and it brings a glimmer of hope that maybe we aren’t too early for whale watching afterall.
We arrive at the Safari Voyager after sunset. It’s about the same size as the Wilderness Explorer we sailed on in Alaska, and with the 30 passengers, she won’t be anywhere near full. We meet Captain Shep at the gangway, board, and are shown to our cabin and our home for the next week.
Settling into the boat
Our cabin on the 200 deck is smaller than the upgraded quarters we had on the Wilderness Explorer, but not by much. A queen-sized bed, with two bedside tables, plenty of maneuvering room, and a window that looked directly out with no walkway in front. The entry door opened to the interior corridor, though one still had to go outside to get to the lounge upstairs on the 300 deck. But considering the warmer climate of Baja, spending time outside on the boat came to be more welcome than it might be in Alaska.
As I mentioned, the configuration of the Safari Voyager is a bit different than the Wilderness Explorer, with the lounge and bar in back, meaning less opportunity to settle in with a drink and watch the oncoming sea. Instead, there is a long bench outside in front of the bridge that proved to be a favorite lookout point. Again, perfect for warmer days in Baja, maybe a little colder in Alaska. Where the Wilderness Explorer is 3 decks, Safari Voyager has 4, with the dinning room situated on the bottom deck of both. Where the activity gathering spot on the Wilderness Explorer was always “Aft 300”, on Safari Voyager it will be “Aft 400”.
Casting off and looking forward to the week
Captain is anxious to get under way, so he calls for safety orientation fairly quickly. Unpacking and organizing the cabin will have to wait. We grab our orange safety PFD bricks, and make our way up to the lounge. We feel like we’re old hands of the safety orientation; trying on our PFDs, and listening for the Abandon Ship pattern on the ship’s bells.
The orientation ends, and we have about 20 minutes to finish unpacking, before our first meal onboard. Downstairs, we join everyone in the dining room for supper, during which the ship leaves port and we’re finally underway, headed for our first stop at Los Gatos, which will take until midday Sunday. We spend the meal meeting all our new friends: there’s Peter & Anne, an older couple from Guernsey, Anne being a highly-experienced nature photographer, with her toes dipping into social media (see @vannilla for many of her best shots); Sue & Tom; Helen & John; Jen & Scott; Catherine & Mike; fellow PNW’ers Sharon & Paul, from Vancouver, Washington just up the road from us, and Taryn & Tony, from Seattle where Tony runs whale watching tours; Simon & Ruth, from Scotland; Kate & Matt, a couple from Munising, Michigan who run glass-bottom boat tours on Lake Superior; Colleen & John; singles MaryLee and Dave; Jeff & Teresa, who bought this trip at a charity auction, not even fully knowing what it was; as well as four passengers from the Porthole film crew.
As before, each dinner consists of a meat selection, seafood selection, or vegetarian selection. You also have the option of combining selections - like surf-n-turf, or meat and veg - or double portions of anything. The food is already infinitely better than what was offered at the resort in Cabo; the meat is tender and juicy, the fish expertly cooked, sides are wonderfully paired, everything tastes fresh. How the chef and crew are able to cook these magnificent meals in a galley smaller than the closet at the hotel in Cabo still amazes. It is so good. They even go so far as to pair a wine option with each selection, if desired, some varietals we’ve never heard of and would’ve never thought to try. Plus, chef and the stews were, once again, all over Margaret’s dairy intolerance on day one, offering dairy-free options with little-to-no prompting. It’s carefree when you want it to be, but so accommodating and flexible when you need it to be, it takes a lot of stress out of meals. And as our stew for the night Marcella kept reminding us, “vacation calories don’t count”. This will be very hard to give up.
After dinner, we walk up to the deck to take in the still warm night air and ocean breezes, watching the lights of La Paz slowly drift away. A brief night cap in the lounge, to continue some of the fun conversations we began over dinner, and we both agree it’s time to head back to the cabin and turn in for the night, ready for this wonderful adventure.
